In the land of high passes

by Stanley Sobari

About an hour’s plane journey from India’s hectic capital New Delhi is the remote town of Leh, deep in the Himalayan mountains. The modern convenience of air travel offers one way to get here. A more adventurous option, however, is the grueling journey by jeep through the Himalayas on the magical Manali to Leh route.

Leh is situated in the Ladakh region in northwestern India. This journey by road begins in Manali in the state of Himachal Pradesh and crosses some of the world’s highest mountain passes.

Taglan La, which towers a breathtaking 5,328 meters above sea level, is the most spectacular mountain pass on the route. After all, the word “ladakh” translates to “land of high passes”.

Travelling the Manali to Leh route takes in average elevation of more than 4,000 meters  across what is known as the ‘rooftop of the world’.

Almost a full day’s bone-shaking traveling by jeep through the pristine natural terrain is with it just for awe-inspiring views of Ladakh, which has also been described as the world’s last Shangri-La, with its jagged mountains and surreal landscapes.

The geographical isolation and extreme natural elements have somehow helped to preserve its beauty, becoming its saving grace.

“You don’t see a soul for miles,” says a backpacker from France. “Not a single soul, either of man, bird or beast. All that you encounter are snowy landscapes, glacial melts, and the massive rocky mountains that change color faster than a chameleon.”

Traveling through this cold desert, Buddhist prayer flags, stupas and whitewashed doubled-story houses on the mountaintops begin to appear on approach to the final destination of Leh.

The magical natural beauty of the place is indescribable. Standing amid the vast Himalyas and pointing the camera in any direction, one is sure to capture a breathtaking scene. Intense bright sunshine and the bluest skies charm beyond words.

“I always boasted to myself oh having traveled a lot and seen a lot, but I was not prepared for this,” says a photographer traveling to Leh on an assignment.

“At certain points on the way I was so touched and awed by the serene beauty that I hung my camera and stopped taking pictures,” he says. “I know my photographs would never be able to match and communicate the experience of this place, no matter how lovely they may look.”

The tourist town of Leh, bustiling with backpackers, is situated a breathless 3,505 meters above sea level. Travelers and adventure tourist from around the world come here to climb mountains, recharge or just relax.

The Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre in the heart of the town draws a large number of visitors to take yoga classes and Vipassana meditation courses – one of India’s most ancient techniques of meditation.

During peak tourist season from July to September, the festive atmosphere in the town is heightened by backpackers flocking to this spot on the erstwhile Himalayan hippie trail.

“The number of tourists coming to Leh has grown considerably, with better transportation options becoming easily available,” says owner of the Asia Guest House, who also offers adventure activities around Ladakh.

“It used to be only a remote region and a backpacker spot, but now domestic tourist are also coming in large number following India’s growing economy and improved air connections to Leh,” he says.

Leh’s streets are full of carefree foreigners riding bicycles and motorbikes, carrying backpacks, playing guitar, or just relaxing and acclimatizing to the high altitude and laidback lifestyle.

During peak tourist months, these visitors can be found in the many restaurant that spring up like mushrooms in the summer.

The twinkling night skies reveal Mother Nature’s moonlight glory to the soundtrack of the scattered barking of dogs in the distance.

“There hardly is any other place with so much to do in the lap of nature. You can go trekking, river rafting, mountain hiking, mountaineering, rafting, kayaking, and jeep safari,” says Dumbang. “The lure of the Himalayas is irresistible.”

Apart from the adventure activities and nature gazing, Himalayan Buddhist attractions are also a major draw.

Whitewashed stupas and grand ancient temples dot the mountainous landscape throughout the region with their unique architecture of stone walls and mud bricks.

There is plenty to explore in Leh and walking remains the best option to see the sihts. Cement steps lead to the towering Shanti Stupa, buildt by Japanese Buddhists in 1991. On the hilltop, the wihte-domed stupa stands majestically, quite distinct from the surrounding local Ladakhi architecture, to spread a message of world peace and prosperity.

Many smaller stupas are lined on the way as one completes a short climb to this two-level structure depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life in robust colors.

It is worth spending some time here to take in the stunning beauty of the surrounding snowcapped mountains, and a bird’s eye view of Leh. Many visitors enjoy savoring the sunrise and sunset from this point which becomes illuminated by lights at ngiht.

Sankar Gompa, a small but architecturally beautiful Buddhist monastery, can be reached by a tranquil 30-minutes walk from Leh through lines of poplar and willow trees. This timeless monastery with its serene ambience is certainly worth a visit.

Leh place, a nine-story building dating from the 17^th century, looms over the town. Climbing to visit the palace is fun, especially if you walk through the old town’s maze of streets and houses made fro mbricks and mud.

Recently restored by the Indian authorities, the former royal palace provides some stunning and panoramic views of the town and the surrounding mountains. Its museum displays a rich collection of ornaments and memorabilia from the past.

Close to the palace in the Main Bazaar is the biggest mosque in Ladakh, called Jama Masjid. This historical mosque was built in 1667 and its Islamic architecture blends beautifully with the multitude of monasteries set in the mystical landscape. The mosque is open only to men.

Thiksey Monastery, less than 20 kilometers from Leh and locatd on a hilltop, is a 12-story complex with an impressive museum that displays artifacts like statues, wall paintings and swords, some even carved from human bones.

Another important sight worth visiting is the Hemis Monastery, located 45 km from Leh. Hemis Monastery existed before the 11^th century and its mask dance is a popular attraction for visitors.

Back in Leh, another 30-minute walk leads to a donkey sanctuary. Founded in 2008, it provides shelter to aged, abandoned and homeless donkeys. Its founder, South African photojournalist, was on an assignment in the area and found herself moved by the plight of stray donkeys, prompting her make difference.

“Come to Leh with plenty of time. It is a must to spend at least a week to 10 days to get a glimpse of the many sights that the Himalayas have to offer,” says Sonam from the Asia Guest House. “There are hight passes, shimmering lakes, mighty mountains as well as a medieval life style and culture still preserved by friendly communities.”

When the time comes to leave this unspoiled land once inhabited only by nomads and yak herders, there are some fascinating options to choose from. It all depends on which way your arrived at Leh.

If you arrived by plane, choose the Leh to Manali route to leave since you have acclimatized by now. If you arrive by the Manali to Leh route, a good choice is to leave by the Leh to Srinagar route, which brings you through Kashmir, long eulogized by poets as “paradise on earth”.

A gap year student from the US, sits at the window seat of a minibusmarveling the impressive scenery of the Himalayan adventure,” he says. “Once has to come to the Himalayas – air road, anything’s fine. As they say here, ‘there is no unspectacular way to reach the Himalayas.’

Peak tourist season is between July and September, when temperatures average 20 to 25 C. temperatures drop to below freezing throughout the winter.

Traveling to Leh from the hill station of Manali by road is a tough journey that takes two days, including an overnight stop. Roads are only open during summer and early autumn. During winter, flying is the only way to reach the area; there are frequent one-hour flights from Delhi.

Leh Palace dominates the town and has recently been restored. Shanty Stupa is a striking monument that also rewards visitors with stunning views of the area. The mountainous terrain offers and abundance of opportunities for trekking, mountain biking and kayaking.

As Leh and the surrounding areas are at an elevation of around 3,5000 meters, visitors may need to take a few days to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness.