Tuesday, December 13, 2016

MARRAKESH EXPRESS



#A Train from Fez passes the Idris I Dam, en route to the town of Oujda on Morocco’s Algerian border | Route: Tangier to Marrakesh Morocco; Miles: 340; Notable passenger: Graham Nash of Crosby, Stills and Nash, Paul Bowles; Dining car: Food from the bar gets mixed reviews: stock up on snacks in advance; Sit on: the left-hand side for the views of the Idris I Dam on the Fez-Oujda branch


THE famous Crosby, Stills and Nash song Marrakesh Express painted a lively portrait of Moroccan railways: an on board carnival of ducks, pigs and cobras, all seen through a hazy cloud of exhaled smoke. 
These days a journey aboard the Marrakesh train yields less in the way of travelling livestock and mind-bending tobacco-but just as much in the way of dusty deserts, crumbling Kasbahs and colourful chacters. Follow the old hippy trail by catching a southbound service fro mTanger along the coast to the port of Casablanca. From here, trains turn inland, rumbling a corss the baked earth until the Atlas Mountains rear up on the horizon and Marrakesh materializes out of the heat haze. If you’ve time to spare, take a detour along the soon to be upgraded Fez-Oujda line, which branches off the main line en route to Marrakesh. Here, the crowning moment comes soon after the train depart Fez, with sweeping views of the idris I Dam backing on to arid, low-slung hills.

Night trains from Tangier to Marrakesh take roughly 20 hours, changing at Casablanca (oncf.ma).

Saturday, November 12, 2016

In the land of high passes



About an hour’s plane journey from India’s hectic capital New Delhi is the remote town of Leh, deep in the Himalayan mountains. The modern convenience of air travel offers one way to get here. A more adventurous option, however, is the grueling journey by jeep through the Himalayas on the magical Manali to Leh route.
Leh is situated in the Ladakh region in northwestern India. This journey by road begins in Manali in the state of Himachal Pradesh and crosses some of the world’s highest mountain passes.
Taglan La, which towers a breathtaking 5,328 meters above sea level, is the most spectacular mountain pass on the route. After all, the word “ladakh” translates to “land of high passes”.
Travelling the Manali to Leh route takes in average elevation of more than 4,000 meters  across what is known as the ‘rooftop of the world’.
Almost a full day’s bone-shaking traveling by jeep through the pristine natural terrain is with it just for awe-inspiring views of Ladakh, which has also been described as the world’s last Shangri-La, with its jagged mountains and surreal landscapes.
The geographical isolation and extreme natural elements have somehow helped to preserve its beauty, becoming its saving grace.
“You don’t see a soul for miles,” says a backpacker from France. “Not a single soul, either of man, bird or beast. All that you encounter are snowy landscapes, glacial melts, and the massive rocky mountains that change color faster than a chameleon.”
Traveling through this cold desert, Buddhist prayer flags, stupas and whitewashed doubled-story houses on the mountaintops begin to appear on approach to the final destination of Leh.
The magical natural beauty of the place is indescribable. Standing amid the vast Himalyas and pointing the camera in any direction, one is sure to capture a breathtaking scene. Intense bright sunshine and the bluest skies charm beyond words.
“I always boasted to myself oh having traveled a lot and seen a lot, but I was not prepared for this,” says a photographer traveling to Leh on an assignment.
“At certain points on the way I was so touched and awed by the serene beauty that I hung my camera and stopped taking pictures,” he says. “I know my photographs would never be able to match and communicate the experience of this place, no matter how lovely they may look.”
The tourist town of Leh, bustiling with backpackers, is situated a breathless 3,505 meters above sea level. Travelers and adventure tourist from around the world come here to climb mountains, recharge or just relax.
The Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre in the heart of the town draws a large number of visitors to take yoga classes and Vipassana meditation courses – one of India’s most ancient techniques of meditation.
During peak tourist season from July to September, the festive atmosphere in the town is heightened by backpackers flocking to this spot on the erstwhile Himalayan hippie trail.
“The number of tourists coming to Leh has grown considerably, with better transportation options becoming easily available,” says owner of the Asia Guest House, who also offers adventure activities around Ladakh.
“It used to be only a remote region and a backpacker spot, but now domestic tourist are also coming in large number following India’s growing economy and improved air connections to Leh,” he says.
Leh’s streets are full of carefree foreigners riding bicycles and motorbikes, carrying backpacks, playing guitar, or just relaxing and acclimatizing to the high altitude and laidback lifestyle.
During peak tourist months, these visitors can be found in the many restaurant that spring up like mushrooms in the summer.
The twinkling night skies reveal Mother Nature’s moonlight glory to the soundtrack of the scattered barking of dogs in the distance.
“There hardly is any other place with so much to do in the lap of nature. You can go trekking, river rafting, mountain hiking, mountaineering, rafting, kayaking, and jeep safari,” says Dumbang. “The lure of the Himalayas is irresistible.”
Apart from the adventure activities and nature gazing, Himalayan Buddhist attractions are also a major draw.
Whitewashed stupas and grand ancient temples dot the mountainous landscape throughout the region with their unique architecture of stone walls and mud bricks.
There is plenty to explore in Leh and walking remains the best option to see the sihts. Cement steps lead to the towering Shanti Stupa, buildt by Japanese Buddhists in 1991. On the hilltop, the wihte-domed stupa stands majestically, quite distinct from the surrounding local Ladakhi architecture, to spread a message of world peace and prosperity.
Many smaller stupas are lined on the way as one completes a short climb to this two-level structure depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life in robust colors.
It is worth spending some time here to take in the stunning beauty of the surrounding snowcapped mountains, and a bird’s eye view of Leh. Many visitors enjoy savoring the sunrise and sunset from this point which becomes illuminated by lights at ngiht.
Sankar Gompa, a small but architecturally beautiful Buddhist monastery, can be reached by a tranquil 30-minutes walk from Leh through lines of poplar and willow trees. This timeless monastery with its serene ambience is certainly worth a visit.
Leh place, a nine-story building dating from the 17th century, looms over the town. Climbing to visit the palace is fun, especially if you walk through the old town’s maze of streets and houses made fro mbricks and mud.
Recently restored by the Indian authorities, the former royal palace provides some stunning and panoramic views of the town and the surrounding mountains. Its museum displays a rich collection of ornaments and memorabilia from the past.
Close to the palace in the Main Bazaar is the biggest mosque in Ladakh, called Jama Masjid. This historical mosque was built in 1667 and its Islamic architecture blends beautifully with the multitude of monasteries set in the mystical landscape. The mosque is open only to men.
Thiksey Monastery, less than 20 kilometers from Leh and locatd on a hilltop, is a 12-story complex with an impressive museum that displays artifacts like statues, wall paintings and swords, some even carved from human bones.
Another important sight worth visiting is the Hemis Monastery, located 45 km from Leh. Hemis Monastery existed before the 11th century and its mask dance is a popular attraction for visitors.
Back in Leh, another 30-minute walk leads to a donkey sanctuary. Founded in 2008, it provides shelter to aged, abandoned and homeless donkeys. Its founder, South African photojournalist, was on an assignment in the area and found herself moved by the plight of stray donkeys, prompting her make difference.
“Come to Leh with plenty of time. It is a must to spend at least a week to 10 days to get a glimpse of the many sights that the Himalayas have to offer,” says Sonam from the Asia Guest House. “There are hight passes, shimmering lakes, mighty mountains as well as a medieval life style and culture still preserved by friendly communities.”
When the time comes to leave this unspoiled land once inhabited only by nomads and yak herders, there are some fascinating options to choose from. It all depends on which way your arrived at Leh.
If you arrived by plane, choose the Leh to Manali route to leave since you have acclimatized by now. If you arrive by the Manali to Leh route, a good choice is to leave by the Leh to Srinagar route, which brings you through Kashmir, long eulogized by poets as “paradise on earth”.
A gap year student from the US, sits at the window seat of a minibusmarveling the impressive scenery of the Himalayan adventure,” he says. “Once has to come to the Himalayas – air road, anything’s fine. As they say here, ‘there is no unspectacular way to reach the Himalayas.’
Peak tourist season is between July and September, when temperatures average 20 to 25 C. temperatures drop to below freezing throughout the winter.
Traveling to Leh from the hill station of Manali by road is a tough journey that takes two days, including an overnight stop. Roads are only open during summer and early autumn. During winter, flying is the only way to reach the area; there are frequent one-hour flights from Delhi.
Leh Palace dominates the town and has recently been restored. Shanty Stupa is a striking monument that also rewards visitors with stunning views of the area. The mountainous terrain offers and abundance of opportunities for trekking, mountain biking and kayaking.
As Leh and the surrounding areas are at an elevation of around 3,5000 meters, visitors may need to take a few days to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness.

Saturday, October 8, 2016

La Sagrada Familia

Barcelona’s most famous landmark
KINDLY described by Georges Orwell as ‘one of the most hideous buildings in the world’ (and considered by others t ocontain some of the most sublime architecture in modern history), Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia is a landmark of Marmite divisiveness. But like it or loathe it, the basilica is the world’s most famous building site. Conceived by visionary architect Antoni Gaudi, its sculptures and spires have been slowly forming over Barcelona’s rooftops for more than 130 years – and will continue to do so for at least 12 years more, until the builders take off their hard hats for good.

Fortunately you won’t have to wait that long to get an impression of the end product. A newly released video gives a 360-degree CGI rendering of how the structure should look when it’s completed in 2026 (the centenary of Gaudi’s death and it’s already accrued nearly four million views online.

The pious architect himself, however, was never bothered by the length of time the project was taking. When questioned about the delays, he was said to have simply answered: ‘My client is not in a hurry.’

To watch the video, visit the Sagarada Familia You Tube shannel (youtube.com/sagradafamiliacat).

Entry to La Sagrada Familia starts at (sagradafamilia.cat). tickets for the towers and the on-site Gaudi Museum are also available.

Waiting For Gaudi, La Sagrada Familia didn’t begin its life as Gaudi’s project. One of the oldest parts of the basilica-the exterior of the apse-follows an earlier design for a neo-Gothic church, briefly attempted in 1882. Should the building be finished in 2026, it will have taken 144 years to complete-slow going compared with St Paul’s (35 years), but quicker than Notre Dame (182) and York Minster (252), and rapid compared to Cologne (632).

Donkey Work, Depicting the birth of Chirst, the Nativity Façade was the only façade Gaudi oversaw construction of before his death in 1926. It has a colourful history: Gaudi hoisted alive donkey over the manger scene to see that it would look like, while corpses from a local morgue were used as models for some figures. Keep an eye out for a sculpted solider with six toes: this is because the model also had an extra digit.

Number Crunching, Completed in 1976, with statues added from the 1980s, the Passion Façade depicts the crucifixion of Christ and symbolically faces west towards the setting sun. its was controversially sculpted in a very different style to Gaudi’s Nativity Façade, with gaunt, angular figures. Look out for a cryptogram-a grid of 16 numbers that looks a bit like a Sudoku puzzle. Tallied up in any direction, the numbers equal 33 Christ’s age when he was crucified.

Inspired Spires, The spires of La Sagrada Familia are a representation of different figures from the Bible-these bell towers stand for the 12 apostles (although only eight have been completed thus far). Even more are on the way: one large spire will represent the Virgin Mary, while the highest will symbolize Jesus Christ. When complete, it will make La Sagrada Familia the tallest church building in the world, standing 170 metres high.

End of the Line. Work is under way to construct the Glory Façade-set to be the basilica’s largest. One obstacle Gaudi hadn’t reckoned on here was a high-speed rail tunnel-opened a few years ago to connect Barcelona to Madrid, it passes within two metres of the foundations. Gaudi never had the happiest relationship with things on two rails. He was killed after being knocked over by a tram in 1926,

Thursday, September 8, 2016

Iran’s Destination to consider exploring

ESFAHAN, This former imperial capital (also known as Isfahan) is home to arguably the most majestic collection of buildings in the Islamic world, centred around its tree-lined Imam Square
PERSEPOLIS, The ceremonial capital of the ancient Persian Empire was destroyed by Alexander the Great, but its frieze-covered, Unesco-listed ruins are among the world’s greatest.
YAZD, A desert cit yof winding lanes, blue-tiled mosque and badgirs (ventilating wind towers), Yazd is built almost entirely using traditional mud-brick architecture.
SHIRAZ, The heartland of Persian culture, Shiraz is known for its wine, literature and poetry, as well as for its tribal weavings, historic gardens and fertile valleys.
TEHRAN, Iran’s capital has a range of museums and galleries, manic bazaars and a thriving cafĂ© culture, with the snow-carpeted Alborz Mountains at hand for an active escape.