Sunday, September 6, 2015

Eritrean Railway


#The Eritrean Railway was partially destroyed during conflict in the 1970s, but was restored to working order a decade ago | Route: Massawa to Asmara,Eriterea |Miles: 77 | Notable passengers: Italian troops sent by Mussolini ti invade Ethopia | Dining car: not on board, but the sure to try an injera (spongy flatbread) at one of the stops |Sit on: the left-hand side for the best mountain views

CONSIDERED by many to be the Holy Grail of rail travel, the little-visited Eritrean Railway is one of th last working lines still using steam engines. Barely changed since it was first bolted together by Italian colonists a century ago, it’s a spectacle to behold: with noble tank engines puffing and wheezing over 77 miles from the wharfs of the Red Sea to the capital city of Asmara. En route, they pass through epic Old Testament landscapes: mud-brick village pastures where shepherds drive their flocks, and mountains which echo sublimely to the hoot of passing trains. It’s not always a journey for the faint-hearted-gradients are steep and there’s more than one stretch where the train wobbles from side to  side as a near-vertical drop looms inches away. Trains terminate at Asmara: one of Africa’s loveliest cities, it shows the legacy of Italian rule in the for of pizza parlours, coffee shops and Art Deco architecture.

Ffestiniog Travel offers five days on the Eritrean Railway as part of its 13-day ‘Eritrean and Cairo’ itinerary (ffestiniogravel.com). As well as trips aboard a chartered steam-hauled train, visitors get to ride on a vintage Fiat Littorina railcar-a curious contraption that looks like a bus mounted on rails.

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