Fez, Morocco

Pleasure palais

By Stanley Sobari

With donkeys clopping through the winding lanes of the medina, Fez feels little changed in more than a millennium, and spring here descends with a similarly timeless rhythm: the weather grows mild, wildflowers bloom on the hills around the city, and stalls heaped with orange blossom scent the air in the souqs. Tucked away in a quiet corner of the old city, Palais Amani is an ideal base for easing into the labyrinth. Push open the thick wooden doors and you’ll find a listed riad, its grand fountain trickling amongst gardens flanked by orange and lemon trees. Inside, rooms are full of traditional Moroccan artistry – bright mosaic floors, ornate wood paneling and Fassi embroidery – and there’s also a hammam and rooftop terrace with sweeping views. Meals, including four-course breakfasts, offer a taste of Fez, with ingredients gathered daily from local souqs and gardens. Guests can also master their own local dishes, exploring the medina with a chef to pick out ingredients before rustling up a tagine-based feast. Back outside are the former capital’s wealth of sights, from the Chaouwara tanneries to the intricate madrasa, the Medersa Bou Inania.

Palais Armani’s cookery course includes a basket of spices, apron, recipes and lunch; there are also classes in Moroccan baking. Rooms start at $. (palaissamani.com). 

Ryanair flies direct to Fez from London stansted (ryanair.com), and various airlines fly with one stop from UK cities.